Regular trainings of our guides for maximum safety

All guides on Mount Kilimanjaro therefore regularly (or at least should) go through training on topics such as first aid and detection and avoidance of altitude sickness. Our guide Erasto just recently completed another training session. Together with other guides, he was trained to treat both light injuries as well as to apply first aid measures in the case of emergency. The participants were also trained to bring mountaineers, who can no longer descend the mountain for health reasons on their own, safely to the next camp or to the exit of the park. To avoid a serious emergency, mountain guides also learn how signs of a health hazard can be detected early.

“I’ve been working as a mountain guide on Mount Kilimanjaro for more than 10 years. During that time, I have completed numerous training courses and gained a lot of experience. Nevertheless, I always like to attend the trainings, because the participants are always taught new knowledge or old knowledge is refreshed.”

If you would like to know more about health at Kilimanjaro, just have a look here. Alternatively, here you can find another article on health matters and risks of climbing Kilimanjaro.

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Awesome. It was 7.32 in the morning and my alarm just rang – marking the day of departure to

Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro!

Those of you who have also read our first blog post will notice the latest by now: We enjoyed the trip very much, and were confronted with restarts and milestones we had to achieve along the way. Plus, I like to set my alarm at 7.32 in the morning.

Accordingly, also the second day of our trip started relatively early. Some final preparations and a good breakfast later we drove from our lodge to Kilimanjaro National Park. By now it was around 9 a.m. There are different ways that bring you up to Uhuru Peak, the top of Kibo, the highest of Mount Kilimanjaro’s three volcanic cones. Timo and I opted for Machame Route, also referred to as Whiskey Route. Therefore, our driver aimed for Machame Gate, the starting point for this route. We had on board with us: Our guide Erasto, our co-guide Amos, our cook Juma as well as eight porters; thus, a group of eleven people in total, that Erasto had compiled for our tour.

11:2 – Why?

What seems to be an enormous escort for two people and reminds of Western colonial rule can be explained easily:

• Guide and co-guide: Each party should, if possible, count the same number of guides and co-guides (Erasto and Amos) as tourists (Timo and I). Regardless of the group size it is always possible that tourists need to end the trip early and descend the mountain for health reasons (especially altitude sickness). Tourists must never hike the national park unaccompanied. Consequently, every early descent requires one guide or co-guide to descend together with the tourist. If a group of ten tourists is accompanied by only two guides, the whole group needs to descend the mountain as soon as the second tourist ends the tour early! Thus, when you book your trip make sure there is at least half the number of (co-) guides as tourists (the more the merrier).
• Cook: Dry bread for 6-7 days? No Way! Our cook Juma prepared warm and cold dishes several times a day. Important components of our meals were potatoes, rice, noodles, meat and fish (dried or from cans), bread and different types of vegetables.
• Porters: You have the chance to enjoy nature at its best for about one week. Everything you need to sleep, fresh water (at least at the beginning), foodstuffs and cooking utensils incl. a camping stove etc. thus need to be carried along the entire trip. No porter must carry more than 20 kg in total. Therefore, the number of porters is easily explained. To our surprise, the actual weight each porter carries is even officially registered at the entrance of the national park.

Tourism is one of the most important sources of income in the region. The thought of doing good and improving peoples’ usually low living standards by traveling is something important to us. Moreover, locals generally appreciate the exchange of ideas with tourists.

Machame Gate, we’re coming!

After a 45-minute drive we reached Machame Gate, the entrance of Kilimanjaro National Park. Upon arrival, we noticed that the air was already fresher and purer than at lower altitudes. Moreover, we noticed that we weren’t the only tourists. There were several smaller and larger groups waiting to start their hike. The largest group counted more than 20 tourists!

It took a while until everything was unpacked and prepared for the hike. We used the waiting time to register at the entrance of the national park, which is compulsory. At the registry, they required information from our passports, and about the people accompanying us, i.e. our guides. Thus, it is made sure that everyone who enters the park also leaves it at a later point in time. Moreover, the national park fee depends on the number of days you spend inside the park. That is another reason why the operator of the national park is interested in the number of days you spend inside the park. Due to a rising number of tourists over the last couple of years, the fee has been increased several times in the past. When we were there in March 2017, it was around 100 USD per day.

Finally, shortly before midday – into the forest!

The route between Machame Gate, one of several entrances to the Kilimanjaro National Park, and Machame Camp leads through a dense mountain rainforest. We walked on paths through the lush green. Up in the trees we saw groups of monkeys making their way through the leaf canopy every now and then.

After an hour’s hike at an altitude of about 2,200 meters (around 7,200 ft), we took the first break. Our lunch packages included some bread, fried poultry, fruit juice and water. From the beginning of the hike on you should try to frequently drink water or juice. We recommend at least 3-4 liters per day. This prevents your body from dehydrating and suffering from altitude sickness.

I found a so-called hydration pack very useful, which is nothing else but a water bag with a hose. Thus, you have the mouthpiece always close to you. This is a clear advantage over an ordinary drinking bottle as it encourages you to drink more frequently. However, I would also take an ordinary 1 liter drinking bottle with me as it is more suitable for washing hands and brushing teeth.

Walking, fast and slow

During the ascent, I was occasionally reminded of Daniel Kahnemann’s book “Thinking, fast and slow”. The porters, who sometimes left long after us, normally overtook us the latest during lunch break. Anyhow I felt like we were crawling up the mountain. That, however, was the best we could do. “Pole pole” – slowly, slowly. Walking slowly allows your body to much better acclimatize to the height and thus also prevents altitude sickness. Therefore, I found it even more impressive that the porters overtook us so quickly carrying considerably more weight than us (my daypack was around 6 kg).

Another two hours and some short breaks later, the until then thick rain forest started to thin out. We had finally reached the beginning of the moorland. Shorter trees as well as an increasing number of ferns and mosses are typical for this vegetation zone. Moreover, it got slightly chillier, and the temperature dropped from originally around 25 °C (77 °F) to around 17 °C (around 63 °F). Only some minutes later, after nearly 5 hours hike, Erasto finally announced:

“We’re there, Machame Camp!”

In the late afternoon, we finally reached the first camp of our trip, Machame Camp, situated at 2,835 meters (9,391 ft) above mean sea level (AMSL). There were numerous bare spots amid the sometimes only six-foot tall trees. These were partially filled with tents. Moreover, as in every camp along the route, there was a wooden hut for registration upon arrival in the camp as well as toilets (outhouses). The latter, however, neither provide running water, nor paper, nor soap. Best bring everything you need yourself. In Machame Camp we also had the first longer conversations with other tourists, who we met again every now and then during the upcoming days. Moreover, for the first time we had a good view of Kibo, which was bedded in the gold-red light of the evening sun. Impressive!

When we arrived, our tent had been already set up. Erasto and the rest of the team tried to make everything as comfortable as possible for us. The tent was designed for two people and sufficiently large. There were two thin mattresses on the floor. This still didn’t create the same type of comfort a normal bed would have, but it increased the quality of sleep considerably compared to a simple sleeping pad.

For dinner, our cook had prepared chicken and rice, and a vegetable soup as a starter. As in the entire region, we stuck to the principle “cook it, peal it, or leave it”. This means as much as “do not eat raw fruit and vegetables, and if, only peeled (personally)”. We stuck to that principle, even if there were only few occasions where we were served such food.

And what next? Next came our every evening briefing.

After dinner, we discussed the current climate conditions and how to be dressed for the night. Because: Even if it can get relatively warm during the day, at night the freezing point is reached easily at higher altitudes. Thus, it was quite common for us to sleep in our jogging pants and fleece jacket. Moreover, we got tips on how to be dressed for the following day so we could already get prepared in the evening. Finally, Erasto measured the oxygen saturation in our blood as well as our heartbeat – a procedure to recognize signs of altitude sickness early. We only put a clip (pulse oximeter) on our index finger, hence, everything free of pain.

After a long day, we were laying in our tent around 8 p.m. – first day: Check!

Our trip: Day 1 → Day 2 → Day 3 → Day 4-7 → Day 8 → Day 9-10 

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Our next day started around 7.30 in the morning. Timo and I were each given a bowl of hot water, which the porters placed in front of our tent. You can use it for brushing your teeth (for that purpose, however, you can just as well take water from your drinking bottle) and basic personal hygiene.

“One week without taking a shower and washing the hair?!!?!”

At first glance, it seems strange to do without that for a week. However, at this point I can reassure you it is not as bad, because

1. even without running water you have several possibilities to take care of your personal hygiene;
2. to clean your hair, for example, you can use dry shampoos, which do not require the use of water. On top of this, from the third day onwards (at the latest) you are hiking with headgear anyway due to sun, wind, and cold;
3. finally, no one notices as everyone is in the same boat and got used to it by then!

The morning mood up the mountain is refreshing and emanates something positive. It made our breakfasts, which we usually had outside, even nicer. Once more, we saw the snow-covered summit of Kibo – a breathtaking view. Around 8.30 a.m. we left Machame Camp and started our hike towards Shira Camp.

At this point we present you a classical daily routine. Thus, you get a better impression of the activities and routines of the trip.

Who walks when, with whom, and what does a normal hiking day look like?

Days usually start around 7.30 in the morning – getting up and dressed for the day, packing everything, breakfast around 8.00 a.m. and leaving between 8.30 – 9.00 a.m. Every morning, we were given hot water for brushing teeth and having a wash. For breakfast, we frequently had something else, usually a mix of toast, porridge, pancakes, egg, sausages, bacon, butter, jam, and different types of fruits such as mangos and oranges. Tea, coffee, water, and fruit juices were offered to us for drinks. We had breakfast outside at a table in front of our tent each morning. Afterwards, we started the hike for the day.

We usually left as a group of four: Erasto (guide), Amos (co-guide), Timo and I. Our porters and our cook stayed in the camp to pack the tents and wrap up everything. Timo and I were only walking with our daypack. It included something to put on in case of cold or rain, our camera, snacks, water, and other things we personally needed during the hike between the camps. We also recommend taking tissues (or toilet paper) and disinfectant as sanitary installations along the route are rare. Normally you walk from camp to camp without the need for sanitary installations, but you never know…

It is also recommendable to take aspirin (in low doses) and vitamins with you, which you can take from time to time during the hike. We also had Ibuprophen on us, however, rarely made use of it. Travelling light during the hike is another success factor for reaching the top of the mountain. Thus, you should try to carry no more than 6-7 kg in your daypack during the hikes from camp to camp. Usually, this is plenty. Here you find an overview of topics that will help you with your preparation for climbing Mount Kilimanjaro.

All the things we did not need during the hike between the camps we left in the previously addressed waterproof bags, which were then carried by our porters. The porters and our cook overtook us regularly during the hikes. Thus, upon arrival in the next camp, everything was set-up for us. The waterproof bags with our personal belongings were placed in our tent. We recommend putting your luggage in additional small pouches. Doing so better protects them from dust and weather conditions. Moreover, we felt it was more hygienic as the waterproof bags are reused.

The hikes from camp to camp are diverse with regards to flora, fauna and terrain. Machame Route is esteemed to be one of the most beautiful routes. However, it is also seen as slightly more demanding than other tracks up the top of Kibo (hence, the name “Whiskey Route”). All in all, climbing Mount Kilimanjaro is a trekking tour and has only little to do with alpine hiking or even climbing. It’s for that reason, that people of all ages climb the summit. In any case, a basic fitness-level and certain mental strength are helpful, no matter which route you choose.

Overall, we were walking relatively slowly, however, which is normal. Especially upon first arrival at 4,000 meters (around 13,100 ft) and during hikes at higher altitudes for acclimatization purposes you consciously put one foot in front of the other – “pole pole”, slowly slowly. Moreover, we paused frequently to rest, drink and have some snacks. We carried our lunch in respective lunch boxes.

Especially during the afternoon and at lower altitudes rainfall is quite common. Hence, we strongly recommend carrying waterproof or at least water-repellent clothing with you such as rain capes or an umbrella (sounds funny, however, we can confirm it’s really useful!). Here you find a complete equipment and packing list for climbing Mount Kilimanjaro.

In the late afternoon, we reached the next camp. Once arrived, we unpacked, relaxed and enjoyed the afternoon snack, which usually included popcorn or peanuts and a hot drink. We used the time in the camps until dinner to chat with other travelers or to discover the area. Card as well as board games can also be a nice pastime.

We had dinner around 7 p.m., and usually ate together with Erasto or Amos. During dinner time, it is already dark outside, and at altitudes of around 4,000 meters considerably colder at night. We therefore ate inside a larger tent. The mood was always good and convivial. We learned a lot about the Kilimanjaro as well as about the country and its people.

After dinner, we had our regular briefing: What the next day would look like in terms of altitude, walking distance, and “dress code” for the night. Moreover, Erasto measured our heartbeat and the oxygen saturation in our blood by putting a simple clip (pulse oximeter) on our index finger.

From the third day onwards, water is taken directly from streams on the mountain. Even though water is boiled before drinking, Timo and I still added tablets to sterilize the water. They can slightly change the taste of the water, however, make it more digestible. We thus recommend adding such tablets to spring water. We handed them to Erasto in the evening so that the next morning we would have fresh water.

Like most other days, we went into our tent at the latest around 9 p.m.

Day 2 of the hike: Machame Camp (2,835 m) to Shira Camp (3,750 m)

The first part of the hike between these two camps leads through a wooded area. Trees are no longer growing high, however, and the forest is thinner than before. We reached the 3,000-meter mark (about 9,800 ft) relatively quickly. From that moment on we frequently had impressive views. Through uprising fog patches, we walked further up the mountain and arrived at 3,750 m high Shira Camp just before rainfall started.

The camp lies on the border of the moorland. Only a few meters higher the stone desert begins. For an overview over the different vegetation zones best check here. From Shira Camp, we had impressive views on both Kibo and Shira, the highest and the lowest of the three volcanic cones of Mount Kilimanjaro, respectively. The view up the mountain was also fascinating especially due to the changing illumination.

Day 3 of the hike: Shira Camp (3,750 m) to Baranco Camp (3,900 m)

Shortly after leaving Shira Camp we arrived in the stone desert, the last vegetation zone before the eternal ice (but: attention, it is melting!). The way up the mountain is less steep than the day before. Traversing seemingly endless expanses brought us ever closer to Kibo. At this height, I noticed for the first time that air had gotten considerably thinner. Especially the hike to Lava Tower up to 4,600 meters (around 15,000 ft) seemed like the end of a jogging round at full speed – the only difference being, that we advanced step-by-step!

Once we arrived at Lava Tower we had lunch, which gave us new energy. Overall, I ate and drank a lot (even more than usually!) during the time on the mountain; a good sign, as Erasto said, as it means the body is adjusting to the height and thus needs more energy. Hence, my recommendation – take enough snacks such as cookies, muesli bars and dextrose with you.

After lunch, we descended from Lava Tower. “Walk high, sleep low” – a good method to adjust to the height. We walked across scree fields and through fog and rain and finally arrived again at the 4,000-meter mark. By then, the sky had cleared up. Along the way, there were giant groundsels (Dendrosenecio kilimanjari), a type of plant that can grow hundreds of years old. From the distance, we could already see 3,900 meters high Baranco Camp, where we arrived in the early afternoon.

Day 4 of the hike: Baranco Camp (3,900 m) to Karanga Camp (3,995 m)

This stage should rather be referred to as: Baranco Camp to Baranco Wall to Karanga Camp…! After a few hundred meters of gentle walk, the path leads steeply uphill. The so-called Baranco Wall is nearly 300 meters high and leads up to more than 4,200 meters. We had a magnificent view from up there, and also reached the highest point for the day.

From there on the path to the next camp continues relatively steadily straightforward with only minor ascents and descents. Only the last couple of meters challenged our motivation once more: Around 500 meters air-line distance ahead of us we could already see Karanga Camp. To get there, however, we first had to descend approximately 200 meters altitude to the valley, to then reclimb the same 200 meters altitude again. Wonderful.

Once arrived at the camp, we had enough time to relax. Timo and I opted for the 7-day tour – the longer of the two tours if you ascend via Machame Route. Therefore, we had an additional night in Karanga Camp. Tourists that opt for the 6-day tour only make a short stop there. They then continue the same day to the base camp. One of the best things you can do to acclimatize to the height is to ascend slowly. Therefore, Timo and I decided to take the longer route, which I recommend to anyone.

Day 5 of the hike: Karanga Camp (3,995 m) to Barafu Camp / Base Camp (4,673 m)

The final stage to the base camp was relatively short, just as the one the previous day. Both days we only walked 3-4 hours each day. Consequently, we had sufficient time to rest and discuss the upcoming summit climb. The trip by itself was already a great experience. Our goal, however, was to reach Uhuru Peak, the highest point of Mount Kilimanjaro at 5,895 meters (19,341 ft).

The trail between Karanga and Barafu Camp is similar to the one from the previous day. We walked across vast scree fields and on narrow paths along the slopes of Kibo. We pretty much walked around the mountain, mostly uphill. Consequently, the 700 meters altitude difference did not pose a big challenge. Only the last few hundred meters, the way goes steeply uphill. Timo’s energy levels had dropped, and therefore he went straight to our tent to relax. Our group picture for the day hence only shows me.

Was that a sign for altitude sickness? Was the summit climb at stake?

Our trip: Day 1 → Day 2 → Day 3 → Day 4-7 → Day 8 → Day 9-10 

The post We climb to new heights – 4 days, 4 camps 4,000 meters altitude difference appeared first on Jambo Kilimanjaro.

Day 6 of the hike: Barafu Camp (4,673 m) to Uhuru Peak (5,895 m) to Mweka Camp (3,100 m)

Day 6 began even before the previous day ended – around 11 p.m.!

We planned to reach the summit at dawn. A little more than 1,200 meters of altitude difference and 6 hours of hiking separated us from reaching our long-awaited goal. We had started organizing the trip in September 2016, read about “climbing Mount Kilimanjaro”, boosted our vaccinations, and bought equipment.

All for this trip. And for this moment, to be standing together on the roof of Africa!

And then?

We set the alarm a little earlier than one would usually get up. Thus, we planned for enough time to reach the summit. Due to Timo’s condition, we already expected it to possibly take a bit longer than usually. “Pole pole”, slowly slowly. Everything ok.

It is bitterly cold, notably less than 0 °C (32 °F) when Timo and I leave our tent. In the distance on the elevated plain of Tanzania we see the lights of the small cities and villages which little by little turn dark.

Others go to sleep, we get up.

The sky is clear, and I have seldom seen that many stars that clearly; in the outback of Australia, maybe, however, this was a long time ago.

We are wearing warm clothes – long underwear, skiing pants, a thick jacket and a fleece beneath. The wind is ice-cold. Shortly before leaving the camp we get some rice to eat and something hot to drink, to boost our energy levels. 1,200 meters of altitude difference and 6 hours hiking separated us from the summit. Afterwards, another 2 hours of descend back to the base camp follow. That’s what we had to be prepared for. Our hand luggage is well equipped with snacks and water.

As adverse as landscape and weather conditions were (not even speaking about the time of the day and the efforts up to that point), and as exhausting as hiking got the higher we walked due to decreasing oxygen levels, as incredibly impressive it was, this moment up Mount Kilimanjaro.

Why?

Because only few times in our life we experienced so many new and unique impressions, accepted a challenge of that kind, and had to motivate ourselves to that extent. Simply extremely impressive.

The experienced mountaineer may think: “Kilimanjaro? Piece of cake!” That might well be. Yet, around 15% of the people who attempt to climb the summit do not make it. And like many other travelers, Timo and I were no experienced mountaineers. We were hiking for hobby, at best.

And so far, we had not yet arrived at the summit.

For our type of traveler, I would clearly say: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro is impressive and challenging, even if everyone defines “challenging” differently. In any case, a basic fitness-level and certain mental strength are helpful. And even if someone feels climbing Mount Kilimanjaro is not a challenge, it can still be impressive and lead to new insights and perspectives.

“Pole pole”, slowly slowly

Step-by-step we walk through the starry, ice-cold night up the mountain. By now, the wind has eased a bit, which made hiking more pleasant. The way ahead leads up steeply, the way back leads down steeply. In the distance, we can still see some yellow-orange seas of lights. It is around two o’clock in the morning. The summit of 5,148 meter (16,890 ft) high Mount Mawenzi, the second highest mountain of the Kilimanjaro massif, is almost at eye level. Thus, we had already passed the 5,000-meter mark, and hence the summit of 4,810-meter-high (15,781 ft) Mont Blanc, Western Europe’s highest mountain. The air becomes thinner, and breathing harder.

And we start slowing down…

„Everything ok so far?“, I asked. “Everything ok so far.”, Timo answered. So we continue our hike. We start taking more breaks, though. In ever smaller getting steps, we make our way up the mountain. 20 minutes later, at around 5,300 meters AMSL, I ask again: “How do you feel, everything ok?”. “I’ll try a bit more”, his response was. At that point, our guide Erasto engaged in the conversation. We should take care, not push ourselves too hard, not go further than we can. We should also consider splitting the group, so that everyone could walk his own pace. The ascent is exhausting enough, oxygen levels decrease. Walking too slowly can also make someone, who would have normally made it, end the ascent early and descend. “What do you think, Alex?“. “If Timo is still up for it, we try it together.”.

Only a few minutes later, at around 5,400 meters AMSL (17,717 ft), around two to three hours away from the summit, however, we realized – that was it.

Timo couldn’t go on.

So what do you do in this situation; as a group, and as a good friend? Hoping it would not be an issue, we had discussed that case before our trip. Our conclusion was – if, at that moment, it is fine for both of us we split the group. Thus, at least one of us could climb the summit. After a brief discussion, we agreed that I continue together with our co-guide Amos. Timo took the farewell sportsmanlike. That made it easier for me to wish him well for the descent back to the base camp together with Erasto. In another blog post, Timo will provide you with detailed insights into his experience with the height.

Together with Amos, I continued the hike up the mountain. The way got increasingly steeper, the air thinner. Still, we kept our pace, and even if I felt I was running a marathon uphill, it somehow worked. “Think positive”, I had in mind, one of the sentences Erasto liked to say.

Stella Point, 5,756 m

Those who make it to that point, have almost made it to the top. And yet, there are always some who do not pass this point, and end the trip due to physical conditions.

Arriving at Stella Point was an overwhelming feeling for me.

The way from Stella Point to Uhuru Peak runs on a ridge. Darkness slowly gave way to dawn, the wind blew strongly. By that time, I had added a headband to my bonnet, which did a good job until then.

Another half hour later, and only few more meters ahead, I could see it in front of me – Uhuru Peak, the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest point, 5,895 meters AMSL (19,341 ft).

I made it! A memorable and impressive moment.

However, I would have preferred standing with the entire group in front of the summit-sign of Uhuru Peak.

Around 6 in the morning Amos and I finally reached the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, the world’s highest free-standing mountain. Some other hikers had already arrived, others followed. The darkness of the night had given way to dawn by now. The resulting illumination, the views, and the consciousness of having reached the roof of Africa made this an unforgettable experience.

We spent nearly half an hour up the top. Meanwhile, the sun had risen, leading to incredible views. Also the glaciers up the mountain were imposing – enormous ice masses that are several meters high and thousands of years old. All the worse that they will have probably largely disappeared especially from Kibo within the next 5-10 years.

The descent to Barafu base camp turned out to be quick, even though I found it exhausting. Around 9 a.m. we arrived back at the camp. Timo was sleeping, and Erasto welcomed me happily.

After a big breakfast and some rest we started the last stage for the day.

The way from base camp to Mweka Camp leads continuously downhill. At first, we walked through the stone desert, which started to be increasingly populated with the plants the further we descended. After a couple of hours, we finally arrived back at the border between stone desert and moorland. By now, we were only around 3,500 meters above mean see level (11,483 ft). What felt like thin air some days ago had become normal. Our bodies had adjusted to the height, which was great to see.

After 3-4 hours walk in total we finally arrived at the last camp of our trip.

Mweka Camp (3.100 m)

Mweka Camp resembles Machame Camp, the one we passed the first day. It is located in the middle of moorland. Again, there were numerous bare spots amid the ferns and trees. As European spring time is low season, however, these were only partially filled with tents. There is nothing such as the best time to climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. It rather depends on your personal preferences. In March, for example, precipitation increases, however, the number of visitors decreases. You should thus decide on the time of the year for climbing Kilimanjaro with regards to these aspects, among others.

The remainder of the day we used to relax and chat with our team and other travelers. Everyone was in a good mood, and irrespective of having reached the summit we knew:

We had had an unforgettable and unique experience!

Our trip: Day 1 → Day 2 → Day 3 → Day 4-7 → Day 8 → Day 9-10 

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Day 7 of the hike: Mweka Camp (3,100 m) to Mweka Gate (1,640 m) and return to Arusha

The remaining way from Mweka Camp to Mweka Gate was easy to walk and only a few hours long. Thus, other than the days before, we got up a little later.

Moreover, after breakfast there was a little surprise for us. Our entire team performed the traditional farewell ceremony, which stands for a successful climb. Be surprised!

Before leaving the camp, tips are given to the team. Tipping is a tradition in East-Africa and presents an important contribution for people to make a living. Thereafter we began our final stage. At first, we walked through moorland, which turned into an ever-lusher mountain rainforest. We saw different types of birds and monkeys – familiar companions, that we got to know the first day. Moreover, the air warmed up and was increasingly humid.

Shortly before lunchtime we reached Mweka Gate, and thus the exit of Mount Kilimanjaro National Park. Like in the other camps and at the beginning of our hike, we once more registered at the gate.

That was it, “check-out” of the National Park!

We thus had concluded our impressive journey, the 7-day hike of Mount Kilimanjaro. Yet, some more was about to come…

…lunch in Moshi!

Again, we asked our guide Erasto where to eat as authentic African food as possible. He proposed a restaurant in the center of Moshi. The drive from Mweka Gate to Moshi took around 20 minutes. It leads through banana and coffee plantations, past small mountain villages of the Chaga people (the third largest ethnic group in Tanzania), and down the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro.

Once we arrived in Moshi, we indeed had typical East African food – polenta with meat, fish, different dips, and vegetables. Moreover, as a surprise Erasto had invited his wife to join. As a little souvenir, we each received a robe of the Masai tribe. The Masai represent one of the largest ethnicities of the more than 100 tribes of Tanzania, counting around 1 million members. In addition, they are one of the world’s most renowned tribes. Finally, mich also received a certificate for successfully having climbed the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro.

After lunch, we continued our way back to Arusha. The drive from Moshi to Arusha took us around another 2 hours, even if the distance is less than 100 km (60 miles). Along the way, we said goodbye to some of the porters, who had joined us during our trip. They came from different villages and cities in the region around the Kilimanjaro.

Hotel!

Back in the outskirts of Arusha, we first stopped at Ambureni Coffee Lodge. There we picked up the luggage we had not taken with us during our hike. Shortly after, we continued to another hotel in the city center. For our last night in Aruhsa, Erasto had organized a more centrally located accommodation. Even though our hotel was standard middle-class accommodation, we appreciated the two normal beds and sanitary facilities.

The remaining hours of the day we used for a walk through Arusha and an extensive dinner.

Departure day…

The next day, the day of departure had finally come. However, as our flight was only at 4 a.m. in the night from Saturday to Sunday we had all Saturday time to sleep in, relax, and for sight-seeing.

Erasto and our co-guide Amos picked us up at our hotel around noon. By then, we had already checked out and deposited our luggage in the hotel. We then drove together to an artists’ market. Like pearls on a string there was one shop next to the other. They all offered typical local Tanzania artwork, partially handmade, partially bought off third parties. I had expected many more tourists. As that was not the case, Timo and I enjoyed plenty of attention. However, we never felt people were obtrusive. It might have also helped that we had Erasto and Amos with us – two locals, who well know about the customs and habits. Generally, many parts of Tanzania, as well as some other African countries, are safe to travel for tourists.

Some negotiations and a couple of souvenirs later we went for lunch. And once more we had – tasty grilled chicken!

Timo and I spent the late afternoon on our own to discover some new parts of Arusha. The eastern part of the city seems to be a little neater than the city center. From Arusha Clock Tower, we walked a few more minutes further north, and finally arrived at a nice little bar. Via Via turned out to be a great place to relax and reflect upon our trip while having a cold drink. Right next to it was another artists’ market, which was considerably smaller and only offered handmade craftwork from local artists. You should definitely come and see for yourself!

Dinner, drinks – and back to Germany!

We returned to our hotel in the early evening, where Erasto picked us up shortly after. Our driver Chris, who we already knew from the first day, was also back with us. The four of us drove together with our luggage from the city center in the direction of the airport. However, as the night was still young, we didn’t go straight to the airport…

…but rather stopped to enjoy Arusha’s nightlife. Yes, it exists, and is not even much different from what we knew from Europe!

We drove to a place called Sky Lounge, a mix between bar and club, probably closest to an Irish Pub. A little later, Amos joined. We had snacks, drinks, and listened to partially exotic music as well as songs we were familiar with, and watched premier league soccer on TV. A very nice end to our journey!

Around 1 a.m. we left the place for the airport, because: Our plane was supposed to leave at 4 a.m., we thus planned to arrive at the airport at 2 a.m.; and 1 hour’s drive meant leaving the bar around 1 a.m. So far so good…

…if it wasn’t for the flat tire, in the middle of nowhere!

The ride to the airport went well and according to plan; except for when we got out of the car, all we could hear was a slight hissing: until the tire at the front right of the car was flat. What now? Hakuna Matata! We have a spare tire! A couple of minutes and a few simple grips later, Erasto and Chris had the car fixed. Thanks to a small buffer, we arrived at the airport at 2 a.m., ready to go back to Germany. Asante sana, Erasto, Amos, Chris, and everyone else who made this journey such an incredibly great experience for us!

Our trip: Day 1 → Day 2 → Day 3 → Day 4-7 → Day 8 → Day 9-10

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