…our first game drive!

Game drive, what does that mean? In simple words: you go on a discovery tour through a national park in a jeep together with your guide, who is at the same time your driver. A grandiose experience! There were only the two of us on safari and together with our guide we were three in the car. Therefore, we had enough space for our belongings and a clear view outside. Regardless of the type of activity, i.e. both trekking in Kilimanjaro National Park and safaris, you must register in the national park before entering it. You don’t have to take any special documents with you, your driver has all the necessary information and registers you. Hence, a few minutes after arrival at the entrance of Lake Manyara National Park we could drive into the park with our jeep.

Right at the beginning a multitude of baboons lined the road. The partly pert animals are widespread in Tanzania and an integral part of every national park. There are almost no roads in the national parks, but rather trails. However, these are usually in good condition and can easily be driven on by four-wheel drive cars. After a short time, the forest, at first quite dense, begins to clear. On the increasingly open areas we could watch different animals such as impalas, helmet-guinea fowls, different antelope species and giraffes. A little later the trees disappear almost completely and open the view to the lake, Lake Manyara. For bird lovers, this view frequently presents a true spectacle. Thousands of flamingos, ibises and pelicans are regularly found on the shores of the lake. We were lucky and could, thanks to Michael’s binoculars, also observe a hippopotamus grazing from a distance. In any case we would recommend taking binoculars for a safari.

Later we reached the picnic area on a hill. From there we had a great view into the country and over the whole national park. Although Lake Manyara National Park is one of the smaller parks, it is home to an enormous variety of animal and plant species. Meanwhile it had become later afternoon. Like all national parks, Lake Manyara National Park closes at 6 pm for visitors. So we slowly made our way back to the park entrance, especially as we still had more than 10 km to go. Depending on the quality of the trails, the ride may take a little longer, especially during the rainy season. We also allowed for a bit more time in case some animals would cross our path. And that was a good thing to do.

Elephants!

About 15 minutes before reaching the park exit, we saw a small herd of elephants crossing a bridge in the mostly dry riverbed. Whoa! This was the first time we saw these pachyderms in the wild at close range. The joy on our part was correspondingly great. The elephants, however, seemed little impressed and followed their usual rhythm. We thus had the chance to observe these impressive animals calmly from the jeep. Only about five minutes later we stopped again. Elephants again! This time there were two that were measuring their powers. The experience and amazement of being able to see this from just a few meters away was simply great. Altogether wild animals can be observed quite well, if one gets to see them. However, it is important not to leave the vehicle, as most of them will shy away otherwise.

We felt the first day of our safari was a complete success and were thus returning to our campsite in the early evening already looking forward to the next days!

The post The first day of our safari brings us to Lake Manyara National Park appeared first on Jambo Kilimanjaro.

Once arrived at the entrance to the Conservation Area, our driver registered us. The procedure is similar to any national park. A short time later we continued the journey. Dense fog hung between the trees of the highlands, so that the visibility was sometimes reduced to only a few meters. The temperature was about 15 degrees, which we found to be a pleasant change. After about half an hour the sky cleared up. We left the highlands and reached the foothills of the Serengeti.

Serengeti, here we come!

Serengeti means endless expanses and nature and wildlife as far as the eye can see. After less than an hour we reached the entrance of the Serengeti National Park. Now, at the latest, we became aware of the dimensions of the national park, which covers only part of the entire Serengeti area. Since the beginning of the 1980s it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site and covers an area of more than 14,000 square kilometers. This is about 17 times the size of the federal state of Berlin. Since the entrance to the Serengeti National Park was no more than a chic archway, after a quick photo we continued our drive through the meanwhile blazing midday sun. Along the way we saw different animal species, especially gazelles, giraffes as well as zebras and wildebeests. Only a few minutes later we finally reached the place where the usual registration took place. A good time for a lunch break.

Shortly after we started our game drive through the Serengeti National Park. The safari cars all have the very pleasant feature that you can open roof and look outside standing in the car. That’s what we did, driving slow-paced with the warm Serengeti wind blowing around our ears. During that drive we got to see predators for the first time. Hyenas are widespread in Tanzania, although quite shy. Nevertheless, we saw them every now and then during our journey. We also discovered a lion pride that had decided to rest on a big rock. We felt reminded of Disney’s Lion King and shared the joy with other safari cars that had also stopped.

An impressive ride despite the rainy season

Since we were on safari during the rainy season, there were only few tourists and we often had the chance for undisturbed wildlife watching. That was great! During the high season of July, August and December the number of tourists usually rises considerably. This can sometimes disturb the idea of adventure and the experience of watching wild animals. Although it is more likely to rain during low season, we would recommend you consider traveling during the months of April, May and November. Beside a few refreshing raindrops we had impressive views on thunderstorms that crossed the country in the distance. Moreover, the Serengeti, like the other national parks, is greener than during the dry season, which gives the country more charm and variety.

We continued our game drive through the national park for a few hours. We saw countless animals, once more elephants and even one of the rather shy cheetahs. Early in the evening we arrived at our accommodation for the night, the Serengeti Thorn Tree Camp, which is a tented lodge. It is located in the middle of the central Serengeti, on a small hill. Accordingly, we had great views of the Serengeti. Tented lodges are a combination of a campsite and a lodge. The tents you sleep in are more like a bungalow than classic tents. They are equipped with their own bathroom and beds, as can be found in lodges. Only their outward appearance points to a tent.

For us the evening and the night at Thorn Tree Camp were in any case a special experience. Close to the main tent, where you have dinner, there is a small fireplace, which invites you to linger at sunset. Since the whole area is not fenced, one has good chances to see animals day and night. Thus we frequently heard lions and hyenas also during the night. However, there is no reason to worry – the tents are stable and after sunset you only move outside the tents with a companion from the camp.

The post We discover the endless vastness of the Serengeti National Park appeared first on Jambo Kilimanjaro.

Already at half past five and after a short breakfast a driver picked us up. We had decided to do the tour with Serengeti Balloon Safaris. Together with two ladies, who had already been picked up from their accommodation, we set off for the nightly trip to the starting point of the balloon flight. During the drive we saw numerous animals and even a group of hippos crossing the road. Half an hour later, at the same time as the first rays of sunrise, we finally reached the landing site of the hot-air balloon. From there our flight over the Serengeti should start in less than an hour. Our pilot and the team were already busy setting up the balloon. We used the time to capture the impressive moments and the approaching sunrise over the Serengeti with our cameras.

It was now shortly after half past six when our pilot gave us last instructions for the flight. And then it happened:

Balloon flight over the Serengeti!

Which, in fact, started in horizontal position as the hot air balloon is only raised directly to the start. Shortly afterwards, the amazement began, and lasted pretty much for the entire flight. We flew for some time only about one meter above the ground. This low altitude flight allowed us to see the countless impalas at close range. From the following changing altitude we could marvel not only at the sun rising higher and higher, but also at giraffes, elephants and countless other animals. We shared this incomparable experience with only a few other passengers. During the high season, up to 16 participants can be accommodated in the gondola of a large balloon, while smaller gondolas can accommodate up to 12 people.

After a good hour flight over the Serengeti, which can last shorter or longer depending on the weather, we finally landed. After landing, our pilot told us about the tradition of a glass of champagne after each balloon flight and we enjoyed a bit of the sparkling liquid. Finally, we set off for a breakfast together. In the midst of the Serengeti, a richly laid table awaited us, which put a great end to this extremely impressive event.

Around ten o’clock in the morning we were finally back at Thorn Tree Camp, where we had spent the previous night. Together with our guide Michael we went on a last short game drive through the Serengeti before we left the national park. On our way back to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and the Ngorongoro Crater we saw again enormous herds of wildebeest and zebras. After about two hours we reached the entrance of the Ngorongoro National Park. The entrance is located at the crater rim, from where you have a fabulous view into the crater.

Ngorongoro Crater

The Ngorongoro Crater is the largest inactive volcanic crater in the world with an intact ecosystem. The Ngorongoro Crater was created by the collapse of a former volcanic mountain. The crater has a massive bottom of about 264 square kilometers with a depth of over 600 meters. It’s about three times the size of Paris. The descent into the crater was quite fast, so we had enough time to explore the crater. We had already seen some animals in the two previous national parks Lake Manyara and Serengeti. The large number of animals in the crater (up to 25,000 larger mammals) was nevertheless impressive. We also saw from a distance one of the rare rhinoceroses. The enormous and partly cloudy rock walls surrounding the crater give this national park a very special character.

Towards the end of the afternoon game drive we drove towards the crater wall to leave the national park. Once more, we could admire the impressive elephants of the park. Shortly before 6 pm we finally reached the exit of the Ngorongoro Crater National Park. The night we spent at Karatu Simba Lodge. The lodge is located in Karatu, near the small village of Mto Wa Mbu, in the middle of plantations and offers a beautiful view over the landscape.

Last but not least – Tarangire National Park

For the last day of our safari we had planned a game drive through Tarangire National Park. Like the days before we started quite early. After about an hour drive, we reached the park. The Tarangire National Park is one of Tanzania’s most famous national parks and is known for its diverse flora and fauna. It is also home to one of the largest elephant populations in the country. Accordingly, we also had the chance to see the pachyderms up close. In addition, we could watch lions and numerous other wild animals one last time. We were impressed by the numerous termite buildings, some of them meters high. These line the entire park, as well as the Baobab trees, some of which are centuries old. Baobab trees, also called monkey bread trees, are widespread in Africa and impress by their often meter-thick trunks as well as partly bizarre shape. Especially during the dry season their bark serves elephants as a source of water, which is why lower parts of tree trunks often have huge scratches.

In the afternoon we finally left Tarangire National Park and thus ended our safari through the national parks Lake Manyara, Serengeti, Ngorongoro and Tarangire. These are four great national parks that differ considerably, despite having a similar flora and fauna. Lake Manyara National Park, for example, impresses with its large lake and countless bird species. The Seregenti, on the other hand, is much drier and less densely overgrown. The Ngorongoro Crater captivates by its cloudy crater wall as well as an enormous number of animals on only a few square kilometers. The Tarangire National Park is home to one of the largest populations of animals and, thanks to its size, offers extensive and varied excursions.

Since the animal species are similar in all national parks, we strongly recommend enjoying the game drives and not stressing if you have not seen a particular animal in a park. The following day will again give the chance to do so. Like that, we had a great time on safari!

The post Ngorongoro and Tarangire National Park and a breathtaking experience appeared first on Jambo Kilimanjaro.

Awesome. It was 7.32 in the morning and my alarm just rang – marking the day of departure to

Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro!

Those of you who have also read our first blog post will notice the latest by now: We enjoyed the trip very much, and were confronted with restarts and milestones we had to achieve along the way. Plus, I like to set my alarm at 7.32 in the morning.

Accordingly, also the second day of our trip started relatively early. Some final preparations and a good breakfast later we drove from our lodge to Kilimanjaro National Park. By now it was around 9 a.m. There are different ways that bring you up to Uhuru Peak, the top of Kibo, the highest of Mount Kilimanjaro’s three volcanic cones. Timo and I opted for Machame Route, also referred to as Whiskey Route. Therefore, our driver aimed for Machame Gate, the starting point for this route. We had on board with us: Our guide Erasto, our co-guide Amos, our cook Juma as well as eight porters; thus, a group of eleven people in total, that Erasto had compiled for our tour.

11:2 – Why?

What seems to be an enormous escort for two people and reminds of Western colonial rule can be explained easily:

• Guide and co-guide: Each party should, if possible, count the same number of guides and co-guides (Erasto and Amos) as tourists (Timo and I). Regardless of the group size it is always possible that tourists need to end the trip early and descend the mountain for health reasons (especially altitude sickness). Tourists must never hike the national park unaccompanied. Consequently, every early descent requires one guide or co-guide to descend together with the tourist. If a group of ten tourists is accompanied by only two guides, the whole group needs to descend the mountain as soon as the second tourist ends the tour early! Thus, when you book your trip make sure there is at least half the number of (co-) guides as tourists (the more the merrier).
• Cook: Dry bread for 6-7 days? No Way! Our cook Juma prepared warm and cold dishes several times a day. Important components of our meals were potatoes, rice, noodles, meat and fish (dried or from cans), bread and different types of vegetables.
• Porters: You have the chance to enjoy nature at its best for about one week. Everything you need to sleep, fresh water (at least at the beginning), foodstuffs and cooking utensils incl. a camping stove etc. thus need to be carried along the entire trip. No porter must carry more than 20 kg in total. Therefore, the number of porters is easily explained. To our surprise, the actual weight each porter carries is even officially registered at the entrance of the national park.

Tourism is one of the most important sources of income in the region. The thought of doing good and improving peoples’ usually low living standards by traveling is something important to us. Moreover, locals generally appreciate the exchange of ideas with tourists.

Machame Gate, we’re coming!

After a 45-minute drive we reached Machame Gate, the entrance of Kilimanjaro National Park. Upon arrival, we noticed that the air was already fresher and purer than at lower altitudes. Moreover, we noticed that we weren’t the only tourists. There were several smaller and larger groups waiting to start their hike. The largest group counted more than 20 tourists!

It took a while until everything was unpacked and prepared for the hike. We used the waiting time to register at the entrance of the national park, which is compulsory. At the registry, they required information from our passports, and about the people accompanying us, i.e. our guides. Thus, it is made sure that everyone who enters the park also leaves it at a later point in time. Moreover, the national park fee depends on the number of days you spend inside the park. That is another reason why the operator of the national park is interested in the number of days you spend inside the park. Due to a rising number of tourists over the last couple of years, the fee has been increased several times in the past. When we were there in March 2017, it was around 100 USD per day.

Finally, shortly before midday – into the forest!

The route between Machame Gate, one of several entrances to the Kilimanjaro National Park, and Machame Camp leads through a dense mountain rainforest. We walked on paths through the lush green. Up in the trees we saw groups of monkeys making their way through the leaf canopy every now and then.

After an hour’s hike at an altitude of about 2,200 meters (around 7,200 ft), we took the first break. Our lunch packages included some bread, fried poultry, fruit juice and water. From the beginning of the hike on you should try to frequently drink water or juice. We recommend at least 3-4 liters per day. This prevents your body from dehydrating and suffering from altitude sickness.

I found a so-called hydration pack very useful, which is nothing else but a water bag with a hose. Thus, you have the mouthpiece always close to you. This is a clear advantage over an ordinary drinking bottle as it encourages you to drink more frequently. However, I would also take an ordinary 1 liter drinking bottle with me as it is more suitable for washing hands and brushing teeth.

Walking, fast and slow

During the ascent, I was occasionally reminded of Daniel Kahnemann’s book “Thinking, fast and slow”. The porters, who sometimes left long after us, normally overtook us the latest during lunch break. Anyhow I felt like we were crawling up the mountain. That, however, was the best we could do. “Pole pole” – slowly, slowly. Walking slowly allows your body to much better acclimatize to the height and thus also prevents altitude sickness. Therefore, I found it even more impressive that the porters overtook us so quickly carrying considerably more weight than us (my daypack was around 6 kg).

Another two hours and some short breaks later, the until then thick rain forest started to thin out. We had finally reached the beginning of the moorland. Shorter trees as well as an increasing number of ferns and mosses are typical for this vegetation zone. Moreover, it got slightly chillier, and the temperature dropped from originally around 25 °C (77 °F) to around 17 °C (around 63 °F). Only some minutes later, after nearly 5 hours hike, Erasto finally announced:

“We’re there, Machame Camp!”

In the late afternoon, we finally reached the first camp of our trip, Machame Camp, situated at 2,835 meters (9,391 ft) above mean sea level (AMSL). There were numerous bare spots amid the sometimes only six-foot tall trees. These were partially filled with tents. Moreover, as in every camp along the route, there was a wooden hut for registration upon arrival in the camp as well as toilets (outhouses). The latter, however, neither provide running water, nor paper, nor soap. Best bring everything you need yourself. In Machame Camp we also had the first longer conversations with other tourists, who we met again every now and then during the upcoming days. Moreover, for the first time we had a good view of Kibo, which was bedded in the gold-red light of the evening sun. Impressive!

When we arrived, our tent had been already set up. Erasto and the rest of the team tried to make everything as comfortable as possible for us. The tent was designed for two people and sufficiently large. There were two thin mattresses on the floor. This still didn’t create the same type of comfort a normal bed would have, but it increased the quality of sleep considerably compared to a simple sleeping pad.

For dinner, our cook had prepared chicken and rice, and a vegetable soup as a starter. As in the entire region, we stuck to the principle “cook it, peal it, or leave it”. This means as much as “do not eat raw fruit and vegetables, and if, only peeled (personally)”. We stuck to that principle, even if there were only few occasions where we were served such food.

And what next? Next came our every evening briefing.

After dinner, we discussed the current climate conditions and how to be dressed for the night. Because: Even if it can get relatively warm during the day, at night the freezing point is reached easily at higher altitudes. Thus, it was quite common for us to sleep in our jogging pants and fleece jacket. Moreover, we got tips on how to be dressed for the following day so we could already get prepared in the evening. Finally, Erasto measured the oxygen saturation in our blood as well as our heartbeat – a procedure to recognize signs of altitude sickness early. We only put a clip (pulse oximeter) on our index finger, hence, everything free of pain.

After a long day, we were laying in our tent around 8 p.m. – first day: Check!

Our trip: Day 1 → Day 2 → Day 3 → Day 4-7 → Day 8 → Day 9-10 

The post Our first steps on the mountain – we get to know Machame Route appeared first on Jambo Kilimanjaro.