Momella Gate, the adventure starts!

After another half hour drive, we reached Momella Gate, the starting point of every ascent of Mount Meru. Comparable to Kilimanjaro you are registered in the national park before the beginning of the hike. We bridged the waiting time during the last preparations with a relaxed lunch. Afterwards we started our hike to the Miriakamba Huts. We were accompanied by two other travel groups, which coincidentally started their hike at the same time, as well as an armed ranger. For some years now, the escort of an armed ranger has been compulsory, especially because of male buffalos that have been abandoned by their flock. These animals tend to be more aggressive than others and can represent a threat to people. Only from the Saddle Huts you continue without a ranger, as buffalos rarely climb up to this height.

Pure nature

Although we climbed Mount Meru during the rainy season, the weather was almost perfect during the whole hike. Consequently, our hike started with 26 degrees and sun. At the beginning of the hike one walks through bushy and wooded areas. The paths on which you move are well laid out and easy to walk. After about an hour of hiking we finally reached the Fig Tree Arch – an enormous tree overgrown with strangler figs. There we took our first longer break. We had already taken shorter drinking breaks before, because drinking enough is important for good health on the mountain and prevents altitude sickness. The following hike led us through partly densely wooded areas on clearly less well-trodden paths. The sounds of various animals and the ups and downs through the mountain rainforest made the hike an adventure. About one hour before reaching the Miriakamba Huts we took a last break in a clearing. From there we had an impressive view into the country and on Mount Kilimanjaro, which was just opposite and its peak well above the clouds.

First stage – done!

Around 5 p.m. we finally reached the Miriakamba Huts. These lie in the middle of mountain rain forest. From the vantage points of the camp, one has great views into the country. The huts are reminiscent of school trips – rooms with four bunk beds. The beds are equipped with simple mattresses and pillows. For hygienic reasons, we would recommend bringing at least a sleeping bag and a towel to wrap around the pillow for those who do not wish to take bed linen with them. Unlike in the camps at Kilimanjaro, there is electricity in the huts and the whole area, which we found pleasant. After our arrival we first had to “freshen up”! Our porters provided water for washing after arrival in the camp. In addition, there are sanitary facilities that are in much better overall condition and more modern than on Kilimanjaro. If you are looking for the heated pool, however, you still have to be patient until you return to your lodge…

Shortly after sunset around 7 p.m. we had dinner. Our cook prepared a variety of bread, rice, noodles and potatoes, as well as vegetables, fish and meat for each meal. If you have food intolerances, it is best to inform your guide about those before you start your journey. As with every hike to great heights, the oxygen saturation of the blood and the pulse are also measured at Mount Meru in the morning and evening. This is for your own safety, as it helps to detect signs of altitude sickness more easily. The risk of suffering from altitude sickness on Mount Meru, however, is significantly lower compared to Kilimanjaro. After dinner, we spent the remaining time before going to bed with packing and repacking for the following day. Around 9 p.m. it was time to turn off the lights and go to bed in order to start the new day well rested!

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After about three to four hours of hiking and several breaks we finally reached the Saddle Huts. As the name suggests, these are located in a saddle between Little Meru and Rhino Point at about 3,500 meters. There we ate lunch and rested from the hike. Afterwards we hiked up the Little Meru. Already after less than one hour we made it to the summit. The summit is at an altitude of 3,820 meters. The ascent is great for acclimatization and for taking photos. In the late afternoon, we returned to the Saddle Huts. We rested and had dinner early because the next day would start in the middle of the night.

Summit day!

We had our alarm clocks set at midnight. Then it was time to get up, get dressed and eat and drink as much as possible in order to walk through the night well strengthened. Equipped with walking sticks and headlamp we set off together with our guide George around one o’clock in the morning. The first stage was Rhino Point at 3,800 meters. The name comes from the 20th century and goes back to a rhinoceros, which found its last resting place there and whose bones can still be seen. The way leading there winds its way up the slopes of Mount Meru and through dense bushes. Although the temperature was low and close to zero, it was still a pleasant hike. In any case, we recommend wearing different layers of clothing to adapt easily to different temperatures, especially as it can get very windy and cold later.

After a short break at Rhino Point we continued our nocturnal hike. At first, we walked downhill for a bit, then parallel to the mountain along a rock surface and finally continuously uphill. The sky was clear, the air fresh but still pleasant at that time, and we started sweating more and more…! From about 4,000 meters above sea level, we noticed more and more the thinning air. We walked slower than before, breathing in and out deeper and taking regular breaks. Regular drinking and eating of small snacks, even if you are not really hungry, is extremely important. The second half of the hike is steeper than the first and leads along the ridge of Mount Meru’s crater up to Socialist Peak. Especially during this phase, we walked slowly, but steadily and with regular breaks up the mountain.

Light on the horizon

Around five o’clock in the morning we had left the ridge behind us and had a clear view to the east. The exhaustion was great and the motivation somewhat dampened when we noticed that we could see the summit but had to walk around it for more than half an hour to reach it. The view of Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro, was impressive and motivating at the same time. So we continued our hike up the mountain, over boulders towards the summit and sunrise. Around half past six in the morning we finally made it and reached Mount Meru’s summit, Socialist Peak! At 4,566 meters altitude, the summit of Mount Meru is the second highest in Tanzania and the fifth highest in Africa. The emotions were great, the views simply impressive. Thanks to a clear view over to Kilimanjaro we were able to see how the sun rose from behind the mountain and showed the former volcano in all its splendor.

After about 20 minutes on the summit, some rest, eating and drinking, we made our way back. Only at this point did we realize how steep some of the previous passages had been. Surefootedness is therefore recommended in any case! The way down from the summit back to the Saddle Huts seemed extremely long and exhausting (which it probably was…). But all efforts were rewarded with great views and a direct view of Mount Meru’s volcanic crater. After a good three hours hike, we finally came back to the Saddle Huts. There, we had enough time to relax and change clothes, because the temperature had reached a pleasant 15-20 degrees again. After an early lunch we finally made our way back to the Miriakamba Huts. The hike lasted only about two hours, so we could rest after arrival and played checkers with our team. The rest of the day was relaxed, and we went to bed early.

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Water’s calling!

Canoeing in Momella Lake is a popular addition to a climb of Mount Meru. Especially bird lovers get their money’s worth here. But as the way to the lake leads through the national park, one can also discover all kinds of other wild animals. We felt the trip was like a mini safari and would recommend it especially to those who do not plan a subsequent safari anyway. “Momella” is Swahili and means “wind”. And indeed, it was quite windy! Together with our two guides we discovered the lake and surrounding nature by canoe. We were the only tourists at that time, which gave the trip more charm. Beside buffalos we saw different bird species and even hippos. For safety reasons, however, we kept enough distance, but were able to hear the signals of the animals loudly and clearly. After about two hours of canoeing we returned to our jeep and made our way to our lodge in the late afternoon.

The ascent of Mount Meru and the stay in Arusha National Park was a great experience for us. Rarely before have we experienced such a varied fauna and flora and varied landscape in such a short time. We also perceived the ascent of the mountain as a great experience. However, a certain degree of fitness and stamina are highly recommended. Since we had already climbed Kilimanjaro a few years earlier, we also made some (un)conscious comparisons. All in all, there are great parallels between the ascent of Mount Meru and that of Kilimanjaro. However, the abundance of hikers, the flora and fauna as well as the landscape and views differ considerably. We ourselves found the experience at Mount Meru a bit more pleasant, unusual and in no case less impressive than the ascent of Kilimanjaro and would therefore recommend it to everyone traveling to Tanzania!

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